2 paint correction misconceptions

I am in the process of another write up, but I felt like I needed to put this blog up first for all the newcomers in the detailing world. The last several days, for some reason, I kept seeing similar type of posts, emails, PMs and chats. 1 – not being able to get good enough results with machine polishing 2 – people who try to remove swirls by hand  Let me start with time – paint correction, swirl removal, scratch removal, or eliminating imperfections in general, takes a lot of time on most cars. Very rarely do I ever run into a car where I can do a full paint correction in 1 day. Happened to me twice in 8+ years. Personally every solid black car took over 30 hours to detail, except this 20 some year old truck. 13 hours and I was done. Very unusual for paint to correct so easily.  I was very happy that the paint correction process went “fast”, since the condition of the finish was terrible. Lots of very deep scratches, very old, hard water spots and swirls everywhere. Looks a lot better after an hour or so. Again, here you can see swirls, scratches, just about as bad as it can get. After about 2.5 hours, the hood is corrected with HD UNO, HD POLISH, HD  SPEED and protected with HD POXY Here are years worth of water spots. Do you think it is possible to just polish a panel like this for a few minutes and get the result you want? Guess again! Patience, and lots of heavy compounding – paint correction is what will get rid of imperfections like this. Here is another full paint correction detail that I had to do. This IS the norm. 35 hours over 5 days of exterior detailing! Heavy compounding, lots of polishing and swirl removal is what was needed. As you can clearly see, when the paint is under proper lighting, is how you  tell how much work the paint will need. Without looking at paint this way, to most people the paint will look “good” After about 2 hours, compounding with HD UNO  I was making some progress The end result is worth putting time into though, but it does take time. Results like these can’t be done in a day. After all you are leveling auto paint. Very hard clear. Here is my last example of swirled up black paint – this paint correction detail took 37 hours. The common theme of these picture are? Very swirled up paint. These were not neglected cars either. The owners simply didn’t know how to properly wash and dry the cars. Look at the...

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Your Complete Guide to Detailing – Part 3

Alright! We are through the first 2 parts of this complete detail series and ready to get into exterior detailing and paint correction! Without a doubt, the most time consuming part of any detail. Have your hose, or pressure washer ready, before you do anything else. Make sure that the car you are about to detail and clean is cool. Always wash your car in the shade. If you use a foam lance/cannon, foam the car first if you want to. Rinse off after 3 to 5 minutes while you are cleaning the wheels Wheels first! Degreasing wheels and tires should always be done before washing the car. You don’t want to have the paint clean and when you are rinsing the grime off the wheels/tires some of that dirt get back on the paint and scratch the paint as you dry the vehicle. Get all your brushes and wheel/tire cleaners ready. Put on your disposable or rubber gloves. You are going to do one wheel at a time. Rinse the wheel and tire and also the fender to dilute the wheel degreaser, in case you get some on the paint. Spray the wheel well first with a 4:1 ratio of All Purpose Cleaner and let it dwell. Now use your wheel specific degreaser Spray your wheel, making sure that you cover the entire surface, including the inner barrel (this does not apply to every wheel type naturally). If your wheels are not too dirty, like in the picture, you can start cleaning them right away. If you have multi spoke wheels, make sure to clean the inside of the spokes as well. Use what ever type/shape/size of brushes you need, to make sure that you get the wheels 100% clean.   Try not to miss any spots. The last thing you want is to finish the car and notice that the wheels are not completely clean. As always, pay attention to the small details. If you are done with the wheel, rinse it off and turn you attention to the tire. Depending on the type of wheel cleaner you use, you maybe able to use the same product. If not, use the the same All Purpose Cleaner that you used for the wheel wells. Scrub the tires real well. Once done, take a wheel well brush (aka as a brush with a long handle) and clean the wheel well. Rinse. Repeat if need to, until area is 100% clean. Do all the wheels in the same fashion. At the end of the detail, dress your tires and wax or seal your wheel to show them off Ok, Done! Next should be the engine compartment. Rinse the whole front of the car first! Again,...

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Your Complete Guide to Detailing – Part 2

OK! We now have all the tools to tackle everything from engine detailing to paint correction! So if you are ready to go, lets start our detail.   INTERIOR DETAIL Unless the interior detailing consists of nothing but a wipe down, I always detail the interior first. Always. My reasoning is this: If the exterior is dialed in already, why let it sit and collect dust, or worse, while I am cleaning the inside of a car? Interiors can take a few hours sometimes. Here are my steps to a complete interior detail: Remove everything loose from the car (make sure to look under the seats and between them as well.). Empty the glove box, and also look inside the armrest. Vacuum the whole interior very thoroughly. Use your steam cleaner if you have one, to get into crevices and the vents on the dash and blow out all remaining debris. Compressed air will also do the trick. If you don’t have air or steam, use a wet micro fiber towel and wipe the area as well as you can. For the vents, I spray a gentle cleaner and use this brush to clean. Vacuum again.   Next, take a  clean micro fiber towel and your ALL PURPOSE CLEANER or a specific type cleaner and wipe down the interior. Use a brush to agitate stains in carpets and floormats. Make sure to spray the cleaner solution onto the towel and then wipe. Don’t ever directly spray chemicals on the seats, whether they are covered in leather or cloth. Be smart and safe. Nobody likes permanent stains. For stubborn dirt, use a gentle brush. Don’t forget to clean the headliner. Often time, you will find fingerprints, and soft drink splatter up there. Be extra gentle with headliners, because some of them are very thin. Seat belts – if the stains are stubborn, this is where you “can” spray your interior degreaser directly onto the fabric. Use a stiff brush to agitate. Repeat process if need to. Once all plastic, vinyl, cloth or leather surfaces are cleaned, I move on to cleaning the windows. Use a dedicated window cleaner to make sure that you can do the job properly, especially, if the car is a neglected one. I always clean the rear window first, as this is usually the hardest one to clean.  Next is the windshield and lastly I finish up with the side/door windows. Do pay close attention to the side windows and roll them down an inch or so, so that you can clean the edges, that most people miss. You will see build up of dirt – sometime I have to use a polish to get it all clean, if the window...

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HD ULTRA CUTTING PAD IN ACTION WITH HD UNO

Is this compounding foam pad a wool pad killer? If you are ever called to do an exterior detail that is this neglected, like this red truck, I would suggest that you try HD’s Ultra Cutting Foam Pad.  When ever I do any type of paint correction, my first pad choice is always 3D’s Black Wool pad. On this occasion I had a chance to try out this Ultra Cutting Pad. My neighbors neglected paint was a perfect candidate. I didn’t expect too much because there is a big difference in cutting power between wool and any type of foam. With wool of course the con is, that you need to include an extra step to remove the mess wool pads leave behind. Foam cutting pads on the other hand atleast finish down pretty good. I knew that the cutting ability was going to be pretty great, but didn’t know by how much. Like always, I was pressed for time, so there was no side by side comparo this time. I can however tell you, that the cut was very wool like. In fact overall this pad will save you time even if you are going after very very deep scratches. This pad cuts fast and deep. I used HD UNO due to how severely neglected the paint was. 2 slow passes were performed, followed by 1 pass with HD POLISH and a green HD light cutting foam pad THOMAS...

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